Preheat the oven to 190°C (gas mark 5).
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil.
Add the macaroni and cook for 7–9 minutes until just al dente; drain and set aside.
In a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, melt the butter.
Whisk in the plain flour and cook for 1–2 minutes to form a paste.
Gradually whisk in the milk until the sauce is smooth, then whisk in the cream.
Continue cooking, whisking constantly, until the sauce thickens and just comes to the boil, about 5–7 minutes.
Remove from the heat, then stir in the grated mature cheddar, smoked Gouda and Monterey Jack (or mild cheddar) until melted.
Stir in the smoked paprika, ground mustard powder, salt and black pepper. If using, stir in the liquid smoke.
Fold in the cooked macaroni until well coated in the cheese sauce.
Spoon the mixture into a 23×33cm (9×13in) ovenproof dish and sprinkle over the panko breadcrumbs.
Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling.
Leave to rest for 10 minutes before serving.